Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: Indian City Gains Recognition on Unesco Gastronomy List.
Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.